Dec. 26, 2023
Most folks who know me well are aware that I spent about six years working on a musical project about my family history in the Azores islands. Over the course of three trips there, the islands became my happy place. And one of my happiest places in the islands was CASA, a tea house and cafe/bar in the town of Horta, on the island of Faial.
I just happened to stumble upon this place as I was wandering around the town on foot during my first visit in 2011. It was summer, quite warm and very humid, and I had just walked up a long flight of stairs leading to an abandoned convent. An unassuming gate led to a welcoming walled-in oasis – a lush garden with plenty of cool shade surrounding a beautifully designed interior space. The food was simple and light but very high quality, local, and thoughtfully prepared and presented. There were plenty of vegetarian and vegan options. The fig cake was amazing. They played great music and also hosted intimate live music shows and visual art. And there were cats!
CASA was clearly a labor of love, run by Eugenio Viana, his brother Antonio, and their mother Maria, all very kind people who I instantly liked and thought of as friends. Everything felt artfully considered, with absolute care and attention, yet it was not at all fancy or pretentious. It was the perfect "third place." If I lived in Horta I'd have certainly been a regular. And each time I visited Horta, I was a regular.
It hurts to speak of CASA in the past tense, but I recently learned from a Facebook post that they have closed. I don't know the details, but I can imagine. I know it was a challenge getting through the COVID-19 pandemic, and then Maria passed away a few months ago. But the restaurant business is tough even under normal circumstances, especially if you do things with real quality and don't cut corners. The fact that CASA survived as long as it did is a huge accomplishment and a testament to their hard work and dedication. So I offer huge thanks and much respect to Eugenio and Antonio for making such a wonderful place in the world, and I wish them all the best in whatever comes next.
